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The Paris collections are giving women — and anyone who monitors fashion as closely as the Vatican and the N.F.L. draft — a lot to obsess over. That's quite a change from Milan, where many of us were wishing the Italians could get their shows done in fewer days. (When people are discussing the schedule, and not the clothes, you know there's a problem.) 

Here in Paris, I'm impressed that so many designers are conveying emotions in their shows. First Dior and Lanvin,women and kids. which channeled a woman at ease with herself, wrapped up in her thoughts. (I wasn't wild about the dresses with sleeves tied in front, but they sure conveyed the idea of hugging oneself.) 

Riccardo Tisci's show on Sunday evening for Givenchy was very affecting. The singer Antony Hegarty, a friend of the designer, performed with an orchestra as the models circled a semidark space. He began with “You Are My Sister,” and one of the other songs was “Cripple and the Starfish.” All too often, Why Choose german uniforms? a live musical performance and a robotic bunch of models in clothes, however interesting, refuse to jell. But Mr. Tisci seemed eager this season to return to the themes he likes and present them with as much precision and feeling as possible. There was almost a sense of homecoming in the show (the circular runway), though without sentimentalism, and of a still-young designer contemplating his journey in fashion. 

Certainly he had a firm grasp of the Givenchy woman, a layered personality with plenty of grit. The dusky floral and paisley prints, and the flounced skirts tinged with blood red. were gypsy references that have surfaced in Mr. Tisci's designs before, but rarely with such harmony. Some of the outfits came with a leather piece that looked like a biker jacket stripped of shoulders and sleeves, and converted into a zippered corset, which peeled away from the body. It teased with the idea of texture and deconstruction — and it was also a tease. I also liked the surprising use of boyish plaid in the midst of all those flounces and Victorian looking florals. 

Like Phoebe Philo of Céline, Mr. Tisci showed a contemporary version of the ultra-feminine trumpet skirt. And he returned to his sweatshirt, now elongating them and adding screen prints or crystals on chiffon versions. Those were exceptional with paisley silk skirts. 

We're all about geezer style for the young guy and if the recent Fall 2013 fashion shows proved one thing, it's that the old man aesthetic isn't going anywhere. One geezer style detail, the elbow patch. is something we've increasingly seen on brand new goods, taking what is basically a piece meant to repair worn-out jacket arms and turning it into a style statement. Guys wanting to get the look without spending a lot need look no further than our friends at hook+ALBERT. Starting today, the company is launching a line of handsome patches in suede, and patterned wool that are perfect for amping up any sports coat or sweater, regardless if it's falling actually apart. Go tonal or stand out with a dusty hue on a charcoal blazer but whatever you do, make sure you don't give a damn about what anyone else thinks -- because that's the hallmark of true geezer style.