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It can be straight and prim, soft and floating, mannish or feminine. But, as the Paris season opens, there is no doubting what garment is the star, so far, at the international shows.

The rebirth of the blouse has been seen in any collection where a designer is thinking about pieces of a wardrobe, rather than a single item.

Then there is the square cut, standing away from the body, with the shape often reinforced by graphic lines  or checks, as at Marni’s show. The result is like an echo: a shape within a shape.

The opposite style is the soft blouse, making more sense for a womanly figure. It might be made from sinuous silk, slithering or draping across the bosom. Inevitably, in a season of print, a patterned blouse is frequently on offer.

But whatever the style, the blouse has become the pivot on which the entire fashion season is changing its position.

Although the summer dress is unlikely to be voted out, the concept of mix and match has returned, an idea spawned in the 1970s with the breakup of the orderly man/woman divide. And the shirt or blouse held an important place in the closet right through the androgynous 1980s.

Perhaps it was in the 1960s that the sheer top made its most dynamic fashion statement, when Yves Saint Laurent’s baring of the breasts through a black veil of a shirt reflected changing sexual mores.

For summer 2013, any editor would lose count of the number of diaphanous blouses on the runways, with no reaction of shock, horror or surprise.

The Saint Laurent peasant blouse, which the designer said was inspired by a Matisse painting, also had a long life. It was a perfect fit with the hippie de luxe culture and it, too, has recently come back for a new generation more interested in prettifying work wear than walking the hippie trail.

There is a good reason female designers come up with a crisp solution to dressing for work: The urge is personal. Miuccia Prada did not just revive the pantsuit with her winter Miu Miu collection. She herself said at the time that she was bored with skirts and yearned for pants.

Shirts  or even soft blouses  fit like a glove with pants, especially when the trousers have a rising waist. They also look good with pencil skirts. a revival that probably owes less to designer innovation and more to the sex in the office style taken from the “Mad Men” television series.

A return to minimalism, which can be viewed as a cleanup after a period of excess, has pushed forward the separates look. Jil Sander, who took her love of a clean cut blouse with her to her line at Uniqlo, has now brought it back to her signature collection. The finale of white shirt with white skirt illuminated with circles was an elegant and stylish look.

But where have all the jackets gone? Men naturally think of a shirt as something that partners a suit. Although the pantsuit for women is on its way back, the summer 2013 shows have not spawned a new generation of jackets.

The opposite is true. The shirt now IS the summer jacket. Whether square and straight or soft in satin, the blouse has not only come out of the closet  it is taking a premier role.